The road to Yellowstone – Part 2

Up bright and early the next morning with a wide world to go explore.   We asked what were the local (Beaver, Ut.) sites of interest and the only one anyone mentioned was Cove Fort.  So off we went.   I had seen the Cove Fort signs when we go to Colorado but knew very little about it.  It wasn’t a fort like I think of a fort.  A fort to me means military.  Cove Fort is a fortified Mormon way station.  It provided a safe place to stop for those traveling between Salt Lake City and St George.

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It was a home, telegraph office,trading post, and stage stop all rolled into one.   The church has done an impressive job of restoring the fort.

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It is also free and has nice bathrooms so it makes a great stop when you are on the road.

Our next stop was Ogden’s Union Station.   We didn’t really go for the Union Station but for the 4 museums that are housed in it.   One admission buys you all four.

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We will start with the littlest which was the cowboy/cowgirl museum.   It was a strange little museum and our least favorite.  If fact, we really liked the other three but didn’t think much of this one.  I think one problem was the other three museums were staffed with people who loved their subject.  In this one, the person couldn’t care if we were there or not.  The topic was really cowboys and cowgirls as they related to Ogden.  This included such topics as those Ogden Rodeo queens who went on to win the national title.

The next one was the antique car museum.   It is small but well done.  The person in the museum made her subject come alive through her enthusiasm.  It wasn’t the biggest car museum I had ever been in was it was a lot of fun to visit.

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The third museum was the Browning Firearm museum.   The museum included the history of the family along with the history of the various firearms.

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It definitely was not my favorite but my husband loved it.   We spent over an hour looking at all the firearms and bullets.

The last and biggest museum was the railroad one.   There was some general railroad information but it also had a concentration of information on the western portion of the making of the Transcontinental Railroad.  There was displays, a model railroad and even big locomotives.  Even though I had visited other railroad museums, this one kept my interest.

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Touring museums always makes my hungry so it was off to find lunch in Ogden.   T-boning into the Union Station is a street full of restaurants.  We chose the Two Bit Street Cafe.   Don’t you love the name. It actually brought tomy  mind two bit whores for the wild west days.  It is in an old building and has retained some of the charm but isn’t quite there.   We wanted something light so we had a Nicoise salad with Ahi and pork kebabs.

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The food was pretty good but they could do a little more with the atmosphere. The wait staff was good but the kitchen staff was talking very loudly about their personal lives including a conversation about vomiting.  Just what you want to hear while you are eating.

We took our time as we wandered over the hills to Yellowstone.  The leaves were changing making a gorgeous background for our drive.

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Our favorite site was the clouds laying in a valley as we looked on to them from a higher point.

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Related Posts

  • Road to Yellowstone – Part 1
  • Yellowstone (coming soon)
  • Yellowstone – the animals (coming soon)
  • Yellowstone – the food (coming soon)
  • Grand Tetons and Jackson (coming soon)
  • Zion National Park (coming soon)

The road to Yellowstone Part 1

This fall we took a road trip to Yellowstone.  Yellowstone is one of our favorite national parks and we think it is extra special in the fall.    Our original plan was to mosey up through different points of interest with the first one being Antelope Canyon.  I don’t know if we just didn’t know or forgot but the road we selected to Antelope Canyon was closed from the earlier floods.  Instead of backtracking we just starting looking at other interesting things.

Lee's Landing

Lee’s Landing

Our first stop was Lee’s Landing.   It is a starting point for many of the Grand Canyon rafting trips.  I think it is mainly rafting and fishing.     Next stop was the Glen Canyon National Recreational Area.  I am still struggling with what is the different between a national recreational area and a national park.

 

Glenn Canyon

Glenn Canyon

I did enjoy this area.   I love rock formations and there were plenty for me.   I also learned something.   There is a road near the town I live in named Shinarump.   I had always thought it was unusual but must have been some pioneer’s name or something.   I learned in Glen Canyon that it is actually a geological term and has to do with the the rock pillars you see in the Southwest.   Think Monument Valley.

shelter made from rock

shelter made from rock

The journey to Bryce National lead us through diverse and interesting scenery.

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We arrived at Bryce National Park in the afternoon.  It was a picture perfect day except that we could see thunderstorms heading our way.  By the time we were at the end of the road in the Park, you could see beautiful lightning strikes in the distance.

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I know that people disagree with me but I really prefer the Grand Canyon to Bryce.  Yes, it is beautiful but felt like a mini-grand canyon to me.

By now the rain had started and it was time to find lodging for the night.   After driving through the rain storm and several small towns, we ended up in Beaver, Utah.   And yes, they sell “I Love Beaver” souvenirs.

We spent the night at the Best Western which is an old style motel.  You know that type with the outdoor stairs? Management has done what they could ensure it was clean and comfortable.   The treasure of this stay was the Crazy Cow restaurant in its parking lot.   Our room at the Best Western came with coupons. I just can’t resist coupons. The first coupon was for either free fried cheese curd or cheese cake and the second coupon was for 2 free breakfasts the next morning.  Don’t you just love coupons?

Our dinner started with the free fried cheese curd. We had never had cheese curd but figured melty cheese can’t be all bad. I have no idea if this is how it is supposed to taste  but it was very good when it was hot. We had it with marinara sauce but it also came with ranch.

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I order a hamburger and my husband ordered the rib eye steak. My hamburger was very good. I enjoyed every bite. I had gotten onion bites but would opt for fries next time. The fries are great but the onion bites were not. No, this isn’t a miss type. They aren’t onion rings but deep-fried pieces of onions.

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After the first bite of the rib eye, my husbands eyes lit up and he was in meat heaven. It talking to the waitress, their meat comes from a local source. So those happy cows eating grass you drive by may be your steak next year at Crazy Cow.

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My husband still keeps reminiscing about the steak.   He loved it so much that he engineered our return trip to include driving by the Crazy Cow at dinner time.   The dinner was still good.  We tried the baked beans with it this time. They get a stamp of approval also.

Related Posts

  • The road to Yellowstone – Part 2 
  • Yellowstone – The park  (coming soon)
  • Yellowstone – The food (coming soon)
  • Grand Tetons and Jackson, Wy.  (coming soon)
  • Zion National Park  (coming soon)

Bergen

Our last port of call was Bergen.  After being in so many small towns, Bergen seemed really big with 275,000 population. That makes it the second most populous city in Norway.   It was established sometime during the 1030′s as a handelsknutepunkt (trading crossroads for us heathens).

We arrived and started our visit in pouring rain.   This was the worse weather we had the whole trip.

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By afternoon, the sun was out and the city was a lot prettier.  We looked like drowned rats by that time.

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Bergen is a great walking city because there are so many  neighborhood, all that have different personalities.

I love thinking of her dancing in the rain.

I love thinking of her dancing in the rain.

The one thing about walking around the city was the changes in surface materials.  You always had to watch you step or you would find yourself tripping.

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Bergen has a famous fish market that has been around for 700 years.  When I read that I was expecting something old.  What I found was a very modern and  cleanest fish market I had ever seen.   There is actually two parts.   The indoor part was the more established sellers.

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They would also cook you fish while you waited though indoor seating was limited.

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The outside area was stalls that sold both fish and food.

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All the food looked so good and we would have had lunch there except for the weather.   We decided to eat in a nice, dry restaurant.     We chose an old restaurant named Bryggeloftet & Stuene.   It was started in 1910 and kept the old world feel about it.  It was like a big hug after such a blustery day.

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We started out with the traditional fish soup.  It was pretty good but not the best we had.

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For our mains, I had the most delicious steak sandwich I have ever had.   It was served with béarnaise sauce.  The fries were nice and crunchy with something sprinkled on top that I have no idea what it was.

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Lloyd decided to have just an appetizer for his lunch though he did beg some bites of mine since it was that good.   He chose the smoked whale.   Whale is a normal food for most of the countries that we visited this trip but this was the first time we actually tasted  it.  Before when we had talked to the natives, they kept saying it was like eating a very tender steak.   This dish was so highly seasoned, you couldn’t actually taste the meat.

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One thing that really impressed me was they gave me little chocolate bars with my tea.   Who wouldn’t love getting little chocolate bars.

 

Now settle back and come explore the rest of Bergen with me.

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Shetland – Not just for ponies.

 

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I wasn’t very excited about going to the Shetland Island.   I thought see a couple of ponies and my day was done.  Boy was I wrong.  Shetland was a wonderful place.   Shetland is a group of 1oo islands around 100 miles north of Scotland.   About 16 islands are inhabited.  The largest city has less than 7,000 people.

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The culture is a combination of Scottish, Vikings and Norwegian.  The earliest inhabitants date back to 4320–4030 BC.  There really is a lot to see and we only got to see about 1/3 of the main island.   I really wished we had more time here.

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Even the history is interesting.   My favorite piece of history I learned there was that the Shetland islands were pawned.   I think they use the term pawned different from I am use to.   It all happened back in the 14th century when the islands belonged to Norway.   The King of Norway pledged the islands as security against the payment of the dowry of his daughter to King James III.   King James was only a young teenager at the time.   The dowry was never paid and the debt was called in.  The islands exchanged hands and became part of Scotland.

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Even the modern parts are quirky.   There is road that goes through the airport runway so traffic must be stopped when a plane is landing or taking off.

I am going to leave you with some more photos but I hope they inspire you to put Shetland Islands on your bucket list.

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Stavanger

Stavanger is a wonderful town.   It has found a way to be comfortable in both its past and its future and to celebrate both.

Stavanger is the 4 largest city in Norway and was founded in 1125 A.D.    It is considered to be the center of the oil industry in Norway.   The city was smart because they protected the 18th -19th century wooden houses so the town retained that part of their cultural heritage.

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The cruise ship port is right in front of the old part of town so it was very convenient.   It was just a short walk around the harbor to the commercial part of town.   I have to say that I really adored this town.

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In the old part of town was the Sardine Canning Museum which was a lot of fun.   I know, I know, how much of a museum can they have on canning sardines.   But it wasn’t just about sardines, they had canned fish balls also.   They took an old cannery and left much of it intact.

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They used rubber sardines to demonstrate the process the workers had to do to get them from fresh caught sardines to smoked sardines in a can.

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Sardines threaded on a frame ready for smoking

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Sardines getting their heads cut off

 

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Sardines are hand packed into their tins

They had an Oil museum also but we decided to skip it since we had just been to one a couple of years ago.  Instead we visited Sjokladepiken which was a chocolate shop.   Not just a chocolate shop but a very good chocolate shop.  Oil or chocolate…..  there wasn’t a choice.

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Now I am going to let you explore this charming town on your own.

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The Oil Museum we didn’t go to

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I had never seen a parking meter for a boat before.

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Sunday in Kristiansand

Kristiansand was founded in 1641 and named for King Christian IV.  They added sand to town name because it was built on a sandy area.  It is the 5th largest city with a population of 84,000 and has the second largest harbor.  It serves as the trade and communication center for southern Norway so it is an important town.

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Sunday is always a problem for sight-seeing since most of the town is closed.  Without the Information Center, I couldn’t find the one things I wanted to see in Kristiansand.   That was the Stiftelsen Arkivet which is the only authentic WWII Gestapo Headquarters left and it now houses the Institute for Dialogue and Conflict Resolution.  We tried to find it on our own but got horribly lost.

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Kristiansand really did a nice job on their water front areas.   There is a lot of park areas and public PAY restrooms.   It was really funny watching all the tourists who didn’t have Norwegian money.  They would find a person who did have change and then that person would pass the open door unto the next person in line.

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We stumbled on a boat show in the harbor that made my husband’s heart go pitty patter.   Since I had been to more than one boat show here in America, it was fun to see the differences in boats.

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Christiansholm Festning is part of the water complex.   This is a circular stone fortress that was built in 1672 to defend the city.  It was originally built on an islet about 100 yards from shore though it is now connected the land.  It ended its military life in 1872.

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Today cultural and other events are held in the upper level.   There was an art show when we were there.   The main draw is the gorgeous views from the upper level.

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Like every other town we were in, there is an old area but not was interesting as  the other towns we were in.

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Of course there is a beautiful church in the middle of town named appropriately, Kristiansand Cathedral.  It is the third one built at that site and was finished in 1885.  The other ones burnt down.  Luck was with them when the Nazis invaded Kristiandsand since only one tower was damaged from the shelling on the current cathedral.

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I don’t know if it is only on Sunday or others days also but near the cathedral were stalls selling items.  Many of these items were wonderful looking food.  Unfortunately neither of us were hungry and we weren’t allowed to take food items back unto the boat so we only got to look, smell and drool.

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We had a wonderful day just wandering around but it wasn’t a place we would hurry back to.  I don’t know if it would have made a difference if we were there on a day when more was open or not but it didn’t catch our imagination like other towns did.

Here is a few more photos of our wanderings.

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Oslo

Our visit to Oslo was fast and sweet.   Our sail into the harbor began the introduction to Oslo.

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For some odd reason, they only allowed 6 hours in Oslo.  Oslo isn’t a place you can do in a couple of hours.  It is a large city and like Copenhagen, they did a wonderful blend of old

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and new.  You really need days to see this wonderful city.

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Opera House – Doesn’t it make you wish you had a skate board?

It was hard to decide where to go and what to see because of the amount of options.  In the end we decided to spend that day on Bygdoy Peninsula.    The peninsula not only has several  museum there but also the Royal Forest, popular beaches, the summer residence of the King and lovely residential areas.   One of the interesting things about the residential area besides the gorgeous houses, were the  black tile roofs.   I hadn’t seen that before.

Black Tile Roof

Black Tile Roof

The main reason we wanted to go to this area was the Vikingskipshuset pa Bydoy (Viking Ship Museum).

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The museum  houses viking ships and other grave goods from  burial mounds.    It is famous for housing the ship from the largest known ship burial in the world.

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I had always bought into the Hollywood version of a Viking funeral.  WRONG!   They had both cremation and inhumation burials.  Cremation was performed on an open air pyre so the wind would carry the soul to Valhalla but not on boats.   Boats were priced possessions.  Only the wealthy could afford to include a ship in the burial.   If the body was cremated, then the ashes would be included with the funeral goods.   Otherwise, the bodies were laid out with all things required in the next life and buried.  The rich included boats and wagons to help them with transportation during their afterlife journey.  Isn’t that always the way it was?  The rich road while the poor walked.

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It was interesting to see how the boats were made but the part I really enjoyed was all the carvings on the artifacts.  There was so much detail on them and many adorned with metal or shell.   You just don’t think about Vikings and art.  Each items must have taken years to make.

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Can you imagine trying to bury this ship with just basic tools?

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Visiting the this museum didn’t take all six hours so we walked down to the Norsk Folkemuseum (Norwegian Folk Museum).   This is an open air museum that features 160 buildings that represent different regions in Norway, different time periods, as well as differences between town and country, and social classes.  It was established in 1894 with buildings going back to the medieval times  (1200′s).

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My favorite building was the Gol Stave Church.

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I sat in the inside of the church and you could just feel all the generations that worshiped there.  I can just picture the people in the church with the elements battering at the walls.   All the door sills are very high to keep the snow and mud out while the doorways are low to keep the heat in.

Alter Area

Alter Area

Painting by alter of the Stave church

Painting by alter of the Stave church

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Stave Church

Stave Church

In the town section, they had a paint museum.  I never really gave paint much thought before but I do now.   Norway didn’t have a lot of factory colors until the 1960′s.   Before that the painter you hired mixed his own colors.   A person apprenticed to learn how to mix colors and then had to pass a practical test to show they had the skills not only to mix colors but also to do decorative painting.   Painting in Norway was definitely an art.

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In the 1800′s, many of the houses had their furniture built in and highly decorated.

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They did a wonderful job and representing the countryside.   They included gardens and animals into the vignettes.   It was a pleasant way to spend the afternoon and learn more about the Norwegian culture.  Near the end though, many of the abodes started looking alike.    I hope you will enjoy a quick stroll through the Norwegian  countryside with me.

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Geirangerfjorden and Geiranger

When you see photos of the Norwegian fjords most likely they are of the Storfjorden or Geirangerfjorden.  Actually Geirangerfjorden is a branch of Storfjorden.  It was amazing.   We took over 500 photos but don’t panic.   I won’t be including all of them. Our entry into Storfjorden began very early in the morning.   It was a good thing that sunrise was about 3:30 am so we had light to see by. DSC01545 We had spent the extra money for the larger veranda for just so we could spend hours and hours watching the scenery go by.   We even had breakfast this morning on our veranda just so we wouldn’t miss anything.

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It was a lovely morning but I am only going to give you a tease right now.  I will do all the things that takes words and leave you with the peaceful fjords.

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At the end of Geirangerfjorden is the town of Geiranger which was our stop.   This town is very interesting because there is only less than 500 permanent residence.  Come spring, the number blossoms with tour guides and other support staff because this is a holiday mecca.

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First off there is over 300,000 cruisers who come by water and then you have all the campers and adventure seekers.

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A major difference  about Geiranger was how we got off the ship.  Instead of docking the boat or using launches, we used the Seawalk.    Think Jetway for cruise ships.  I have to say I loved it.

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Since it was Noon, the first order was lunch.   We found this wonderful little restaurant very near where the Seawalk named Brasserie Posten.  Since there is only seven restaurants in town, we were lucky that one was very good.  Brasserie Posten has three separate seating areas.  There is one outside in front, inside and outside in back.    I wasn’t interested in the front area since your main view was the line waiting for the public bathrooms.   The outside was delightful but all the shady areas were full.

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That left us the empty inside.

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We couldn’t decide on just what to order so we ordered a variety of items.   The first was the fish soup.   This was the best fish soup we had on the whole trip.  The broth wasn’t too heavy and you could taste the herbs in it.

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This soup was so yummy.  If I ever go back, I am just getting bowl after bowl of the soup.    I am going to eat until I am soup logged.   After the soup our next courses arrived.  They were a salmon salad and a plate of differently prepared salmon and sausages.

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We enjoyed everything except the dark sausage.  We asked after we were done eating and the best we were able to understand the dark sausage included reindeer stomach along with other meats.

With full stomachs it was time to explore the town. That is about three streets.   One great thing about this town was its signs.

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You can’t get more descriptive than that.   They also believe in labeling things what they are.  No sugar-coating here.

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The town had a couple of hotels with the required attached souvenir shops.  It was a heat wave and going into the shops full of people (three cruise ships full) was like going into a sauna.   We spent our time looking at nature and marveling at rushing water.

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Time to say good-bye.   We and our neighbors all got ready for the fantastic trip back out the fjords.

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Now settle back and enjoy the view.

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See the skull in the rocks?

See the skull in the rocks?

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Torshavn, Faroe Islands

Raise your hands.   How many of you have ever heard of the Torshavn let alone Faroe Islands.   I sure hadn’t until this cruise.

Faroe Islands is a group of 18 major islands about halfway between Iceland and Norway though the don’t belong to either.   They are connected to Denmark.  Denmark is responsible for justice, defense and foreign affairs while the Faroese have autonomy over most internal affairs.   The EU treaties also expectantly exclude them from the EU.   In fact, the treaties stipulates that Danish nationals residing in the Faroe Islands are not to be considered as Danish nationals within the meaning of the treaties.  I would love to hear just why the EU doesn’t want them though they took Denmark.

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The islands are 540 sq miles of rugged, rocky land providing for around 50,000 people.   The population is descendants of the Vikings and as hardy as you would expect them to be.   The weather is actually very good with mild winters and cool summers.  One problem for tourists is that it is usually foggy.

The economy had been based on fishing.  But the catches fell causing a large economic slow down for the islands.  But that is changing.  Tourists are beginning to have an impact and the islands are finding new food exports   Here is an article that discusses it.

Traditional Faroese food isn’t overly appetizing.   Mutton is the basis of many meals, and one of the most popular treats is skerpikjot.  Skerpikjot is well aged, wind-dried mutton, which is quite chewy.   If you are still up to trying something local, there is also Tvost og spik. This dish consists of  whale meat, blubber and potatoes.

With these few facts, I approached Torshavn with an open mind.   What I found was a charming town, wonderful people and I wish to know them better.

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Iceland

I was very excited about visiting Iceland.  It is a geological wonderland.  The funny thing is that we arrived during a heat wave.  It was 70 degrees during the day and the people who live there having problems.   Their houses are built to keep the heat in and not to let it out. DSC01239 We chose to use GeoIceland as our tour company because of the owner’s education in geology.   We took the same tour as almost all tourists in Iceland take, the  Golden Circle.   The Golden Circle tour includes Thingvellir National Park, Gullfoss waterfall, Geysir hot spring & Haukadalur geothermal area and Hveragerd earthquake town.  If I had to do it over I think I would have done a tour that concentrated on some of the other areas. DSC01260 Our first stop was in Hveragerd.  It is an active geothermal area.  They suffered a 6.2 earth quake in 2008.  If I hadn’t lived in California most of my life, I would have been more interested in their story but the big earthquakes in the bay area and southern California told a better story on how disruptive an earthquake can be. DSC01236 One thing that was interesting was the greenhouses, which are heated by hot water from volcanic hot springs.  Hot water in Iceland doesn’t come from a hot water heater like we are used to but through pipes just as we get water. That means that each house has two sets of pipes.  One for regular water and one for hot water that is also used for heating the house. During the ride around Iceland, we saw lots of horses.   They were stocky, small horses.  While some are used as horses, a lot are raised as meat to export.  I guess that it really isn’t any different from raising cows for their meat. DSC01246   We stopped at one small waterfall (I forgot it’s name) that had a fish ladder going up it. DSCN1159   Our next stop was Gullfoss waterfall.   Glacial water feeds the waterfall.  The water is brownish, since it carries lots of sediments that the glacial ice has picked up.  It is called the “Golden Falls” since on a sunny day the water plunging down the three-step staircase and then tumbling in two steps down into a deep crevice is suppose to truly looks golden.  We didn’t get to see it be golden so it looked more like a regular waterfall. DSC01269 DSCN1189After the falls, tt was time to head for the geyser.   We had to laugh at the Geysir hot spring area.  Yellowstone is one of our favorite National Parks.  In our head we were thinking this area would be similar to what we see in Yellowstone. Not even close.   There is one small geyser, a couple of mud pots and a boiling steam.  That is the extent of it. DSC01282 DSC01283The good news is that this is also our lunch stop.   There was several options of places to eat.  We chose the Geysir Glima on advice of our guide.   It was kind of a cafeteria type set up with a variety of standard fare like pizza.   But they also had some traditional Iceland foods. DSC01286 My husband selected Fish Stew which is really Fish Hash since it is fish, onion and potatoes all mushed together.   It had good flavor but was monotonous to eat since every bite tasted identical.   It came with Geyser bread which is supposedly cooked 24 hours in the geyser.  It was a very dense bread that I think may have had rye in it.  I think it would be considered a steam bread.  I wish I could have seen them make it. DSC01288I had the traditional Christmas Pork dish with potatoes, vegetables and gravy.   My husband was jealously of my meal and I was a bad wife and only gave him one bite.   I think it was pork belly that had been cooked for hours and hours but I am not really sure.  All I can really tell you is if you get an opportunity, order it. DSC01284             They also had a wonderful souvenir shop but we didn’t get anything.  The things I wanted were very expensive or made from arctic fox.   Living in a desert we don’t have much of a need to wear fur. DSC01299   The last stop of Thingvellir National Park was our favorite.   It is a beautiful area that forms part of the volcanic fissure zone running right through Iceland.  This zone is part of the tectonic plate boundaries of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, which extend the length of the Atlantic Ocean from north to south.  The movement of these plates has shaped the valley for the past 10,000 years.  The tectonic plates are still  moving apart by an average of 1/8 of an inch per year. DSCN1198 Thingvellir also has  the largest natural lake in Iceland. It’s deepest point it is 374 feet.  Most of the water comes from springs and fissures on the bed of the lake or shore instead of  rivers and streams flowing into it. DSC01309       This area is an important historical site to Iceland because it is where the Althing, an open-air assembly representing the whole of Iceland, was established in 930 and continued to meet until 1798. Over two weeks a year, the assembly set laws – seen as a covenant between free men – and settled disputes. DSC01303   It was a long day.   We waved at Reykjavik as we drove through it.  We had talked about visiting the capital but we were worn out and decided we could do it the next day. DSCN1292 Unfortunately, the fog rolled in the next day so we decided to stay on board.  It was really fun watching the fog roll in and overtaking everything.  I haven’t experienced that since I lived in San Francisco.

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Fog rolling in

Iceland is a wonderful country and really deserves more than a day and a half to visit it.   There are so many other areas to explore including visiting a glacier.   Of course, as we are leaving the fog vanishes. DSC01317

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